Training

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Regardless of how much time you decide to spend with him, the greatest amount of it should be spent encouraging your bird’s playfulness, curiosity and independence and teaching it to be a good pet. Quakers like most pets, need their own individual space.

For most birds, this personal space happens to be their cage. A Quaker who is normally the most docile bird you have ever handled may quickly view you as the ultimate enemy when you invade his space. One of the reasons Quakers are sometimes suspicious of new people is that they have received conflicting messages from them.

People who are nervous themselves will tentatively put their hand into a cage as if to coax the bird onto it, yet when the bird responds by approaching the hand, the hand is quickly withdrawn. This gives confusing signals to your bird, who may quickly become frustrated when he cannot perceive what you want, or what he can expect. Human hands reaching into a cage to grasp whatever part of a bird they happen to come in contact with are most definitely not welcomed. Quakers view this behavior not surprisingly, as threatening and will act accordingly to protect themselves.

You will receive a much better reception if you simply open the cage door and place your first two fingers at the bottom of the opening, calmly and quietly coaxing your Quaker onto your hand. If your Quaker is too nervous or frightened for you to attempt this, open the cage door and let him come out when he is ready. It may take some birds a few days to feel comfortable enough to get to this step.

Before you can handle your bird, he will expect you to earn his trust. They have an innate fear and caution of unfamiliar people and objects. When you approach a Quaker that is not bonded or hand trained by you, you should keep your hands at your sides or behind your back and keep your body approximately a foot away while talking in a calm tone.


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